Chile, The Ultimate Adventure
I've written a great deal on Chile but I've for the most part concentrated on Santiago and the major outlying areas. In this article I'll concentrate more on the beach and coastal areas.
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In this article I'll concentrate more on the beach and coastal areas. I frequent these areas just about every single weekend and had, for a time, planned on building my cottage near the coastal areas. I can say there's still a great deal of readily available land for purchase in the coastal areas also
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Prices for a lot range about $3500 to $7500, depending on the size and locations desired. In my ebook on Chile, I have specified some websites you can go to look at that have photos of available land lots and surrounding areas. These areas are very attractive and rustic. The kind of places, where a small cabin would make one feel so cozy and at home in the environment.
The coastal areas of Chile have a lot to offer anyone who is thinking of living there. The most popular area or city is Viña Del Mar. It's the most popular beach or coastal town due to the fact that, it has a casino, which makes it the central focal point. People travel for miles around to go to the casino and this is where the Chilean elite and well to do play. It's very common to run into local tv personalities at the casino and Saturday's are the best for casino action. The casino hotel itself almost rivals the MGM in Las Vegas, in terms of luxury.
If you're not a gambler that's OK also, because Viña Del Mar has a wealth of shops, restaurants and waterfront activity for any and all to enjoy. Right next door to the casino is a large city park where you can rent scooters, bicycles and more for the kids, if you're looking for a bit of romance, then try a "Victoria", which is a horse drawn carriage ride around the city center.
Right behind the casino is the carriage stand, where you and your loved one can take a slow ride down one of the side streets that is parallel with the ocean. You can ride and see the waves and the sunset.
Going into the main part of downtown Viña, you will find tons of street vendors selling anything from oil on canvas paintings of seascapes, to handcrafted leather items and more. There's much to see and do and there are more small curio shops then I've ever seen in my life in Viña. If you're looking to collect unique and rare items, this would be the place to start.
Now as far as accommodations, the cheapest places are called "residenciales". These are old family houses where you can rent a room for a very low price, you won't find luxury but it's cheap and clean. One of the best places can be found at:
Residencial Blanchait
Avenida Valparaiso 82-A
Viña Del Mar
Singles USD 20.00 - 25.00
There's fine dining in Viña but if you want something fast and simple there are tons of cafes and fast food type of restaurants. Fine dining is great but this city is one with people on the move who don't always want to take the time to enjoy a fine cuisine. Everybody's coming and going at all times of day and night. The city is not as lit up as Las Vegas but believe me when I say it has the same feel, the same energy and the same excitement.
During the month of February, the Viña Del Mar International Song Festival has been held each year since 1970, lasting all of six days. The venue for this major event is the Quinta Vergara amphitheatre, and it's organized in three parts: the first is the international competition, which traditionally has around ten countries taking part; then there is the folk section, with performers coming from all over Chile; and finally the international show, sprinkled with international stars, and the ever-hopefuls who wish to win over the demanding audience, and let me tell you, Chilean crowds are very tough to please when it comes to entertainment.
Many american cruise ships are starting to make regular stops now in Viña Del Mar which is quickly making it a very international city. One of my other favorite cities is Valparaiso. Valparaiso is only ten minutes by car from Viña Del Mar and it's considered a historic city. This city has the same protection as that of Prague; nothing in this town can be changed. It all must be preserved exactly as is.
Valparaiso is more or less a historical monument, the whole city! It's very old but this is its charm and character. A real treat in Valparaiso, is a ride on an ascensore. The city of Valparaiso has been called "The Vertical City" because it was built on large hills, and so the city is truly divided. The shops and stores are in the lower part of the city but the residential living is in the hilltop areas, and to get from the hills to the lower part of the city you can take an ascensore.
That is, basically a large elevator car that takes you from the upper to the lower part of the city and vice versa. It's only a couple hundred pesos for the ride but it's a thrill you'll always remember and cherish. The ascensores where first built and put into use sometime in 1883 and then there were over 83 working units throughout the city giving the townspeople access to the lower parts of the city.
Now there are only 15 working units left. It's amazing to see these little boxes going up and down tracks built into the sides of hills. They work just like old time elevators in that they use a counterweight system to provide the lift. It's highly suggested if you plan on coming to Chile you make this one of the things you want to experience.
If you want more info on them you may want to get your hands on my eMag, that's free at my website. Valparaiso has always reminded me of a European city, due to its architecture and styling. Narrow, cramped cobble stoned streets, give a definite air of old world European charm.
It has always reminded me of Paris, and once you've walked down the streets you'll feel the European influence too, even some of the street names are French. There are several good cafes that are French in name also. One place I can recommend for cozy eating with Euro flair is the Le Filou De Montpellier Café. Stop by and get a sandwich and a cup of tea, you'll be glad you did.
There's also Casa Museo, the museum for Pablo Neruda, a great Chilean writer. This is definitely a cultural event and worth seeing. The Brighton Hotel is a great place to stay that also has a lounge with lots of excitement! There are all types of places to find action in Valparaiso.
Just try to get here before June which is the rainiest month for this area, and when it rains it truly pours!
So now comes the big question; is this a good place to potentially live in? The answer is yes it is. Rents are cheap here and that's because there are no modern buildings here, remember Valparaiso is a historical city, so there's no new building going on.
Do keep in mind though; it's a bohemian lifestyle here in the real sense of the word.
The apartment buildings are old and Chile is a country that is only interested in what's new and seemingly modern. Most do not wish to live in an older building, as I've said in my previous writings. Landlords find it difficult to rent older buildings out. This is why rents are so low here but this is not the case in all places. No, in some parts of the city the rent is high, because you're living near the ocean. Overall, for the right person, this can be an ideal situation though.
There's very little work in Valparaiso. Most work in Santiago and commute everyday. It's just a little over an hour from Santiago to Valparaiso and Viña Del Mar and for many this is the only way to make a living. But due to the fact that cruise ships are making regular stops here and the casino is the big draw, I suspect a persona can make a great living teaching casino personnel English.
There are also smaller areas that are all along the coast, that make great hideaways, and places to live. If you have a car, I'd say take a drive down the coastal highway to Con Con (pronounced, Cone Cone). This is a great coastal town. Sleepy, rustic but with real spirit, several hundred apartment complexes line the ocean with the only thing separating them from the sand is the two lane highway.
Don't be alarmed if you happen to see so many Greek styled apartments in this area. That's normal. Remember what I said about Santiago being an eclectic and diverse city? The same is true for the coastal areas also. You'll swear that you're taking a drive in Greece when you see the stylings and the color schemes of the apartments and that's one of the things that make Con Con so interesting. It almost seems to be a misplaced city.
Whether you're going to this area or coming back from it you will pass Edelweiss. It's a Swiss restaurant that has a breathtaking view of the ocean and nearby cliffs. Stop and soak up more Euro styled culture at this great restaurant and have a piece of cake and coffee. Check out the menu for other traditional Swiss and German dishes. The best time to go is around 4pm, any later than that and you risk running into the early evening crowd. Just look for the large Swiss flag and you'll know you're there.
Ah yes, you're wondering now, what's the average rent for a place in Con Con right? Well it averages around $375 give or take, depending again on how new or old the building is. Always expect to pay more if the building is newer and as I have said in my past writings, you don't want a newer building.
Here in Chile, the newer apartment buildings do look all modern and such but they are oh so small space-wise. The older buildings have way more character and are a lot more spacious in size. Again, go to my website and download a free copy of Global Living and check out the pictorial on Valparaiso and you'll see what I'm talking about.
My only complaint, and the reason why in the end I chose to start building my cabin elsewhere, is that the airport is very far from the Valparaiso-Viña Del Mar area. From the airport, these areas are almost two hours away. So I thought to myself, if I arrive from traveling and have been on a plane for ten hours, I don't want to spend an additional two hours in a car just to get home.
So I ruled out building near the beach and coastal areas but I love them so much that I spend just about every weekend in these areas. My friends like to go to gamble at the casino (they're gambling addicts, but that's another story in itself) but I like to explore and look around or find a good place to eat.
If you love photography, then these areas are a photographers dream! Even if you're not a great photographer, take lots of pictures anyway! You'll be glad later you did. There's no way you can come to any of these towns and not leave with a good feeling. I personally, doubt one can come here and not entertain the idea of moving and living there.
Don't think for a moment you can't live and make it in any one of these cities or places, because chances are with a bit of resourcefulness you can. There's nothing like staring out over the cities from a hilltop and enjoying the lights and the sound of the waves hitting the shores.
It's then that you'll realize, just as I did, there's so much the world has to offer, and that there's a place for everyone. You just have to find your place and make it your home. Who knows, maybe the beach areas of Chile will one day become your new home.
Living Like A Native In Morelia, Mexico
The beautiful, rustic, old, colonial city of Morelia is situated about halfway in between Guadalajara and Mexico City and has a thriving population of around 1,000,000 people. It has everything from historical buildings and monuments to modern-day conveniences, shopping centers, restaurants, movie houses, universities and colleges, etc. What makes Morelia special, though, is its people. Their backgrounds vary from native Indian to French to Spanish and other nationalities. Their greatest asset, however, is their warmth and friendliness.
What Brought All To Morelia
Most of my life I have studied foreign languages and other cultures. I spoke Spanish as a child and then went on to other languages. In 1996, I was attending Central Washington University in Ellensburg, Washington for a degree to validate my business experience. Then, one day, a visiting international programs speaker came to one of my history classes and shared her experiences about living in the country of Sri Lanka (an island country just south of India). As I was in a transition period of my life and needing a change, I checked on nearby countries where I could go on an exchange program to re-establish my Spanish language skills. My school had such a program with Centro Mexicano Internacional (CMI) in Mexico that really appealed to my sense of adventure and interest in other cultures. So, I signed up for Spring Quarter 1997 and headed off to Morelia, Michoacán, Mexico.
Morelia would be my home from March 1997 until I moved to Guadalajara to enroll in a more advanced Spanish language program in August 1997. Even now, though, if given the choice of living in Morelia versus Guadalajara, Morelia would always win out. The city is vibrant with a deep sense of culture and history dating all the way back to the 1500's. Every day, on my way to school and back, I walked by old colonial style structures, buildings, statues, monuments, fountains, and parks, each with a story about the past. For instance, an aqueduct (called El Acueducto in Spanish), built in the 1700's to carry Morelia's water supply goes right through the center of town (El Centro). I passed this marvelous structure every time I walked the avenue (Calzada Fray Antonio de San Miguel) leading up to my school. Next to the Calzada is a wide cobblestone pathway with benches to sit and relax, read, or visit with friends. On one side of Calzada Fray Antonio de San Miguel are churches and schools. The other side has shops, art galleries, and a restaurant or two. All of the buildings appear to be at least as old as the Acueducto or older and are fairly well maintained.
Paying the bills
When I first arrived in Morelia, I was depending on financial aid from my school in the US. Within a week or so of arriving at my new school I was asked to substitute for an ill teacher to teach Mexican students enrolled in CMI's ESL (English As A Second Language) program. I found out that I loved teaching the Mexican students. And, as the school was very impressed with my teaching skills, they offered me a part-time job teaching all levels of English and Linguistics classes. Also, I began to work in the school's computer laboratory as a supervisor in the evening after classes were done for the day. Together, both of my positions paid about $3 per hour. With the surplus from my financial aid and from what I earned, I lived on approximately $500 a month or less. Out of this amount I paid for rent, food, travel, entertainment, and obligations I had back in the US. After paying my US expenses, I usually had about $300 or less for my day-to-day living.
My monthly expenses generally amounted to approximately: $50 rent, $150 food, $25 clothing, $25 transportation, $50 other personal expenses (laundry, haircuts, entertainment, etc). Now, some people may think one can't do too much on $300 or $400 a month. It can be done if one does not have to worry about the ownership and upkeep of an automobile. Granted, things were tight at times, but I always managed to go see movies at least a couple of times a month. And, I went to a lot of free or other low cost events such as concerts put on by some of the local schools or musicians. Movies, haircuts, and restaurant meals only cost about $2.
Finding a place to live
Before I even left the US, I checked Morelia's hotels on the Internet and asked for recommendations from officials at my new school. The first place I found that I liked and stayed at was the Mintzicuri Hotel at Vasco de Quiroga No. 227. The rooms were very clean and comfortable at a rate of about $8 a night. Within a week of arriving in Morelia my school's housing director, Charly (a dear, sweet lady), took me to look at local apartments. I found one at the Posada de Villa located at Padre Lloreda No. 176 for about $150 a month. Then, after a few weeks I decided to see what was available in the local paper. I found a rooming house that offered a room for about $50 a month at Vincente Santa Maria No. 1925. When I went to check it out, I found a large, comfortable room with a bath shared by 3 other roomers. We also had access to cooking facilities as well as a mini refrigerator in each room.
Day-to-day life in Morelia
I lived a basic, simple life. I would stop at a local bakery and buy rolls, bolillos (small loaves of bread), and/or galletas (large cookies) for breakfast on my way to school. Then, I ate sandwiches and fruit at my school's snack bar for lunch. For supper, I would either eat at a local café or buy groceries and fix something in my room. My favorite item at the cafés was milanesa, a thinly sliced beefsteak, chopped up and mixed with fresh avocado and eaten with tortillas. Or, I would have milanesa sandwiches and other local dishes. Usually, if I cooked at home, I would eat spaghetti type meals or fruit and vegetables.
Routinely, Monday through Friday, I took Spanish classes and taught English between the hours of 8:00 AM through 2:00 PM. 2:00 to 4:00 PM was siesta (break) time. Afterwards, I taught and worked in my school's computer lab from 4:00 to around 9:00 PM. After 9 was suppertime. Saturdays, I taught classes half-day. I devoted the rest of the weekend to either resting or other personal activities.
When I wasn't busy working or studying, I oftentimes walked around town or took a combi (Morelia's VW Van Mini-Bus system) or taxi to various cultural sites such as the city library, the government buildings, other buildings of historical interest (ex: Mexican Patriot José Morelos' birthplace and house), or mercados (open markets either outside or housed in large buildings) and did a little exploring.
I almost always felt safe in Morelia, not because of the visible presence of gun toting policemen, but because of the very low crime rate. El Centro (downtown) was generally always crowded and busy. Many of the side streets off of Avenida Francisco Madero (Morelia's main downtown street) had shopping bazaars and mercados with every imaginable item from food to clothes to leather goods to electronic items and much more. The one area I did not care much for was right around the bus depot (long distance buses). There are x-rated theatres and other nefarious activities close to that location.
One thing I came to really appreciate in a hurry, was that I did not have to wash my own clothes. There are no self-service laundries that I am aware of in Morelia. I usually took my clothes to the laundry service in the block just down the street from my room. The two young ladies that ran it were efficient, prompt, and always welcomed me with smiles.
The people of Morelia
Generally, the people of Morelia were very friendly, warm, and caring. Two of my friends at a local Internet cyber café were especially helpful to me. When I first went to Morelia, my spoken Spanish consisted of only being able to speak in the present tense. I had never really learned how to properly conjugate verbs. Even though I could read and understand Spanish very well, I was very limited in my ability to converse. At first, I carried 2 very helpful books - Practical Conjugation of Verbs and a Spanish dictionary, both published by Larousse. For 2 months I carried these books everywhere I went and referred to them almost constantly. One day, my friends Genaro and Marcos took me aside and told me to put the books away, try to think and talk as best I could in Spanish and let them help me to correct errors in my grammar. That was the very best thing I could have done. It worked! It was not long at all before I was able to converse fairly freely. The key is immersion in a language - thinking, speaking, and living it.
Other people and families also befriended and "adopted" me. Two of my students took to me like an older brother and included me in their family activities and meals and recreation and also acted as my personal guides around Morelia. One of their favorite activities was gathering around a big-screen TV and watching fútbol (soccer). Sometimes, we would go to a local park or concert. Another of my students took me to events like the local fair and flea market.
Places of interest for tourists
Places I would recommend for visitors to Morelia to see: The sidewalk cafes and food stands, the shopping bazaars and mercados, Morelia's Zoo, the annual Feria in April-May (the local fair), the cyber cafés, local book stores, church and government buildings, museums and art galleries, the parks and fountains (ex: Bosque Cuauhtémoc and the Three Sisters fountain in El Centro), the local universities, movie theatres (generally $2 or $3 for an adult ticket), musical entertainment - one place that comes immediately to my mind is El Colibri restaurant (located in El Centro just off of Francisco Madero). El Colibri has a live band that plays both local music and soft rock as well as a show called El Baile de los Viejitos (The Dance of the Little Old Men), a delightful presentation and musical score.
The shopping bazaars and mercados have all kinds of clothes, leather goods, electronic gadgets, and food items. They even sell birds - big birds! There are shopping areas or mercados all over Morelia. Some that I frequented are: 1). on the way towards the central bus station - several shops selling food items and leather goods; 2). Mercado Revolucion - between Francisco Madero and Plan de Ayala in El Centro; 3) Mercado Independencia - on Avenida Lazaro Cardenas just off of Vincente Santa Maria. One word of caution - when eating at the local food stands, make sure the food is fresh and has not been sitting out for an extended period of time. And, always, always ask for agua purificada (purified water). One more word of caution, this time to women, Mexican, American, or any other nationality - always take along a companion or stay in a group.
Morelia's weather
I was not there during winter months; however, I have heard that the winters are fairly mild. The summers can be very hot at times, but, for the most part, I found them moderately warm to hot. I have heard that it is wise during late summer, fall, and winter months to carry an umbrella, though.
Do your homework before you go
If you are really serious about visiting Morelia - do your homework before you go. Many excellent hotel deals, information about sites to see, historical background, information about language schools, etc. can be found by looking on the Internet. Other great sources of information are travel guides you can either purchase or find at your local library.
My experiences in Morelia were generally positive mainly for the following reason - I went there expecting to live like a native, not a foreigner and I kept a good attitude and sense of humor.
If you are looking for a place to start a new life or to seek a little culture and adventure then, this little hidden gem, Morelia, could be your ticket.
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